The local name of Broad Peak is Faichan Kangri. It is called Broad Peak because of its breadth at the top. It has also been called enormous triple-headed Breithorn (4.165 meters high three-headed peak of European alps) of the Baltoro.

Mason surveyed the height of main peak at 8047 meters (26400 feet) in 1926. Spoleto measured more precisely 8051 meters (26414 feet) in 1929. While the official maps used in 1957 showed a height of 8047 meters, todays maps show 8.051 meters as official height of Broad Peak main summit.

In 1954, Dr. Karl M. Herligkoffer of West Germany tried to climb it. His original objective, however, was to climb Gasherbrum I. He is stated to have failed in persuading porters to carry loads beyond Concordia above the Baltoro glacier. Accordingly, the party carried the luggage and made an attempt, from the south-western side, through the lower Broad glacier. It however, did not meet with success because of a storm and a very low temperature.

K2 view from the camp 7km from Base Camp © Fritz Wintersteller

In 1957, an Austrian expedition came to Pakistan to climb this peak. It was led by Marcus Schmuck. Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known post-war Austrian climbers and the first climber to Summit Nanga Parbat. The group began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain. Consequently they  climbed a snow gully and erected three camps at 5800, 6400 and 6950 meters. While climbing, they made the best use of ropes which were fixed by the 1954 German expedition.

On May 29th, all members of the expedition left camp III for an assault on the summit and Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the Forepeak 8030 meters. Late time and fog forced them to return to camp III.

It was, however, on June 9, 1957 that Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller, who climbed together, reached the summit at 5.05pm. They were followed by the second team, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger, where Diemberger reached the summit at 5.50pm and returned later to the peak together with Buhl. All four climbed the peak without using oxygen and high altitude porters.