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everest 2004: dispatches & pictures Below (in reverse order) are the dispatches sent by the team which were posted on the internet on a regular basis.
Report 15 -Friday 21st May - The Team have aborted their Summit
Attempt It's extremely difficult to express the disappointment for the team, all of which have dedicated the last year to preparing for this. On the other hand, we have to admire the courage that every one of them made the decision to turn around as they had doubts about carrying on. The team have asked me to thank the sherpas, who throughout the expedition have done a splendid job getting everything in place ready for them, and the last few days the sherpas have been with the team, carrying & ensuring the team have been fed & watered at each high camp. As the team descend, the sherpas will now start the task of stripping down each camp and carrying all the equipment back to ABC. The team hope to be back into Kathmandu on the 27th May and to the UK shortly after that. I would like to thank every one for all the support and kind words of encouragement for the team that we have received over the last 2 months
Report 14 - Thursday 20th May Emails & calls from Dave at ABC The group have decided to push up to the top camp at 8300m in the hope that the winds and snow they are experiencing will gradually drop. Next update 2.5hrs
Second
Email: The past four days have shown a similar forecast, we have been unlucky to date with the amount of precipitation that has fallen; hopefully things will come good in the morning.
Satellite Call, 7am this morning: Dave has confirmed today that the team will leave for the summit at around 1am on Saturday morning (weather depending), and that Summit Turn around time will be 11am (6am our time)
Report No 13 - Wednesday 19th May From Jill Pinkerton Adventure
Peaks Office As you will read below, due to high winds the team stayed at 7500metres last night. Today they moved to 7800metres. Mike is now apparently on his way down after reaching 7740metres. The remaining team are all well and again in good spirits, they are all being well looked after by our Sherpa team. Tomorrow the team will move to 8200metres, to summit on the 21st. It's apparently snowing hard on the mountain. All the team but Ray (who is using POISK) went on their oxygen system yesterday.
Report No 12 - Tuesday 18th May From Jill Pinkerton Adventure
Peaks Office The BBC Challenger Tony, decided he had had enough of Everest on Saturday, therefore all the BBC team are now safely back at BC and are heading to Kathmnadu on the 20th May. Also, I spoke with Kevin the other day, who is now back home in the states, hes suffering from 2 broken ribs from coughing whilst on Everest, we wish him a quick recovery. I will keep you posted as we hear news on Tuesday onwards,
Monday
17th May
Report No 11 - Thursday 13th May From Jill Pinkerton Adventure
Peaks Office Once they leave ABC (6400metres) this is their route to the summit: Day 1 ABC to North Col (7000metres), Day 2 North Col to 7800 metre camp, Day 3 7800 camp to 8200metre camp, Day 4 8200metre (approx 2am start) to The Summit, then back to 7800 camp, if not 8200 camp. The team before leaving ABC will be told by Dave the Turn Around Time for Summit day. All of the team will be in constant touch with each other and ABC as they are all carrying hand held 2 way radios. Dave will also be carrying the satellite phone in order to keep me informed of the Teams progress. During Summit time we will endeavour to get the website updated as quick as we can. Its an exciting time for the Team members, this is what they have been preparing for, for such a long timeÉÉ for those back home who have loved ones away its an extremely emotional, stressful time as we sit and wait for their safe return, all of us though have been with our partners, sons, daughters through all their preparations and their dream to climb Everest, We wish the whole team a safe success, buts it's also important at this stage to say that the fact they have all reached 7000metres and spent 2 nights there is a huge achievement in its self.
Report No 10 - Monday 10th May A typical day has consisted of: breakfast at 8am for 8.30am, we then linger until 10.30am when we adjourn lingering for morning 'real' coffee and biscuits. More lingering occurs until lunch at 12.30pm. After lunch we socialise or take part in an afternoon activity until 4o'clock club where we drink more coffee and consume more biscuits. Dinner is at 7pm when the temperature drops dramatically and bedtime promptly follows at 8.30pm to 9pm. There has been various added excitement throughout the week. The strong winds have kept us busy. In one strong gust, during a magnificent lunch, the side of the mess tent collapsed requiring Herculean effort to repair and reinforce. Two toilet tents took a flying tour of the moraine. This has required the services of the Rongbuk Bog Builders to construct a stone toilet and a second roofless squarehouse out of the remains of its predecessor. The BBC office tent didn't quite make it either, receiving swift attention from the dismantling crew. A fully reinforced camp has allowed us to focus our efforts, not on the wind, but on more relaxing activities. We have received free golfing lessons from our resident Golf Pro, Iain. Some of us need more help than others. Interestingly, a golf ball at 5200m travels half as far again as it would at sea level due to the lack of air resistance - science at our fingertips! I have been flying the 3.0m kite I brought, taking advantage of the sunny days and brisk winds. Ben, Tom and Ray have been busy cultivating their beards (there may be an element of competition!). There has been plenty of sponsorship photos being taken. This group of hardened mountaineers are now the new faces of Branston Pickle, the ever increasingly popular Nestle Condensed Milk, P20 sun protection and Buff. We are all waiting in eager anticipation of our summit bid and it's that thought that's keeping us going through this long period of waiting. It's getting closer! Rick
Report No 9 Tuesday 4th May From Tom Clowes BC Once we know when the weather window will be and the team starts making their way back up the mountain, we will keep you all informed on a daily basis.
Report No 8 - Wednesday 28th April - Jill Pinkerton Adventure
Peaks Office Tony & Ewen plan to go to ABC, taking 2 days leaving on Friday. The rest of the team are currently descending the 22km back to BC, Dave will follow to BC tomorrow as he has stayed behind to co ordinate with our sherpas the setting up of all our remaining camps ensuring that whilst the team are resting at BC the next 7 to 10 days waiting for the weather window, that when it does arrive, everything is in place in order to allow their summit bid to take place. The team will now be starting to monitor the weather reports that are been emailed to BC & ABC, looking for that spell when the winds will die. From myself in the office, and the team we wish Kevin a speedy recovery, we are all thinking of him.
Update
from Conan Harrod on his progress, 1 year on Despite the frustration of still not being able to fully exercise the legs in any way, I am finding the reports on this year expedition a nice distraction. By the end of 2003, the specialists at the local hospital were concerned that I may have to undergo a major operation due to the fact that the main fracture had stopped healing. Fortunately on my last checkup in March 2004, things had improved enough to rule out completely any further operations and suddenly I could finally see a light at the end of the tunnel. There is still some movement in the fracture sight so it will still be some months before serious exercise can start. I can walk around quite comfortably now and in the mornings it is not obvious that I am carrying an injury. Since December I have started training hard at the Gym to improve my upper body strength and I am now stronger than I have been in my life. Just in the last week or two, I have started adapting some of the leg exercise machines to allow me to use them without risk of damaging the fracture. At least I can start to regain some of the strength in my legs. I have pretty much decided now that a return to climb Everest in 2005 would be far too ambitious and dangerous for myself and the rest of the team as I would not have given myself sufficient time to regain my strength and confidence. I will therefore be attempting to summit with Adventure Peaks on the 2006 expedition and my work have already agreed to give me the 2 months off that I require. I am even going through the process of purchasing all the replacement High altitude gear I lost on the trip so there will be no backing out then ! Peter Madew who suffered frostbite in his fingers as a result of his rescue efforts has now pretty much recovered after an operation at the end of last year to remove the tips of 3 fingers. I hope to meet up with him on a possible trip to Australia at Christmas on route to New Zealand for my next planned expedition in January 2005 to climb Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. Like most plans at the moment, this could change. Good Luck to the Everest 2004 team. I wish them every success and a safe return.
Conan
Harrod We continue to wish the team a safe and successful expedition, and keep our fingers crossed that the 'weather window' comes good!!
Report No 4 - 21 April 2004 from Tom Clowes at Advanced Base Camp Tony and Kevin went back down to BC a couple of days ago as they were not feeling great. We are in regular radio contact with them and they are feeling much better and hope to return to ABC within the next few days. There is not a lot to do here at ABC except eat and drink lots! There is a vole that scurries around our Mess Tent every now and then looking for scraps. We have named it Roger! The Team currently now have 2 basecamps, of which they have a bed and clothes at each camp, along with a mess tent complete with tables and chairs, CD player. At each camp they also have cooks which prepare and serve the team fantastic meals. The proposed programme for the next few days, weather depending will be once they have been to the North Col (7000metres), they will then rest a day or two, before returning to the North Col to spend the night, before descending right back to BC for a well earned 6 day rest, before heading back up the mountain.
Report No 3 - Tuesday 13 April 2004 from Tom Clowes at Base Camp Over the last few days we have been acclimatising by walking up the valley sides. The scale of the mountains here is vast and the views are spectacular. Today (13th April) we tried to gain as much height as possible before we move on up to Advanced Base Camp (ABC). Rick and Ray got to 6,000m while the rest of us reached heights of around 5,850m. Serena and Paul joined us yesterday. Its good to have the whole team together again.
Report No 2 - Friday 9 April 2004 from Mike Brennan at Base Camp Three days in Kathmandu followed, with everyone buying last minute things, and lots of really cheap, but good quality, gear from "Shona's". Dave was sorting the formalities, and then off we went to the border by coach. The transfer there across the border went smoothly enough, and our hotel in Zhangmu was adequate. The Chinese food sequence began thereafter, good quality, lots of it, but every meal???? The journey from Zhangmu was in Toyota Land-Cruisers. Speedy and comfortable, just an hour to Nyalam, much improved lodge there since my last visit in '98, and there was a very modern-looking Internet Cafe!!! The team continued to bond over the next 24 hours, and we had a decent acclimatisation walk above the town, in good weather, up to 4200m. The next day saw another drive through superb Tibetan scenery to Tingri, more Tibetan than Chinese in appearance, and little changed to my eye from the past visits. We managed a good walk next day up towards 4800m, a few feeling the height by now, but no serious problems. Everest was visible, though in mostly greyish skies, and far from dominant, except perhaps in our thoughts. The Sherpas set off a day before us to try and set up camp. Yesterday, a stunning 4 hour drive through small communities scratching a living in harsh surroundings finally brought us to the famed Rongbuk monastery, with the even more famous view of mighty Everest towering over us all. Beautiful to those who notice these things, and very, very big! Some of us seemed quiet, and there were definitely a few watery eyes.....maybe the dusty wind? Then the last few kilometres to the Base Camp at 5200m, where few groups seemed to have arrived. The tents were all up and well secured with stones, the gear was laid out in orderly lines, the large mess-tent for 16 was ready for our meal, and here we are. What a superb team of Sherpas! No missing gear, excellent food under our belts (better than at home was heard at the table), and linked, somewhat temperamentally, by sat phone to the world again. We are all in decent health, spirits are high, and we are all very happy to be here. We do not underestimate what may lie ahead, and look forward to moving up to ABC, probably on Thursday. Four Sherpas have set off today to begin establishing ABC, which will be similar in almost every way to BC, but at 6200m it will be colder still.
Once leaving Kathmandu the team will travel overland into Tibet arriving at Everest Basecamp approx 6 days later. From here, once basecamp(BC) is established and all communication systems have been set up the team will email reports of their expedition and progress. We would like to take this opportunity to wish the whole team an enjoyable, safe expedition, and hope that they all achieve their goal.
Jill
Pinkerton
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